Need confirmation of a theory

The cougar Ive been driving is having some starting issues that last few days.

Will crank but acts like it wont fire, almost like its flooded slightly.

Had to crank to beat hell on Friday to get it to work, but once it started and cleared out, it was good to go from then on.

Went out this morning and same no start issue. Even tried some either to get it to fire a bit.

No luck.

Pulled the drivers side 3 plugs (its a v-6) and they all were sopping wet with gas.

Dried out the plugs, cleaned em off and put em back in, started to sputter a bit and then nothing.

Pulled the plugs again and same thing.

Even got my pencil torch out and lit the gas in the cylinder, much fun btw.

Put everything back together and crank, some sputter then nothing.

Pull plugs out and they are dripping gas again.

My thoughts on it are that the fuel pressure regulator went out. Main reason being is that my moms dodge dynasty did the exact same thing once.

What do you guys think?

More info.

Pulled the fuse for the fuel pump and tried to start the car.

It sputtered but of course never fired.

Checked the plugs and they did dry out.

Put the fuse back in, cranked it, pulled the plug and it was dripping gas.

Have I just proven my own theory?

sounds reasonable to me

What kind of spark plugs? If they are Champions, pitch them and get a set of Autolites before you go any further. A fuel pressure gauge would tell you if you have too much pressure, shouldn't be over about 40. Also check the spark. It should snap a good blue spark at least 1/8 inch or more. I have seen those Ford coils get weak.

Got autolites, would NEVER EVER consider running champions for any reason.

Dont have access to a pressure gauge, maybe the local rental shop has one.

Was thinking about swapping the coil for another one I have here, but with the sparkplugs dripping with gas from just trying to start makes me think its getting to much gas vs not enough spark.

I will try out the spark, but it may be friday before I have time to do it.

I was taught to always verify proper ignition before attacking the fuel delivery system. Nothing wrong with checking fuel pressure tho.
That pressure test port is just a schraeder valve. Maybe you could test it with a tire gauge if you had a remote starter switch or helper. And a tire gauge you didn't care about loosing.

did test the spark last night.

Wasnt a very good test, but it did work, It was fairly good, bit more yellow than I would have liked, but considering it was just resting on a ground Ill accept it.

Stupid car forces me to press the brake pedal to engage the starter so I wasnt in the optimal viewing area.

I know it needs new plugs though. Noticed the electrode was rounded off a bit.

a fuel pressure gauge is a handy thing for efi engines--i learned that by owning or being owned by an 88 f350

Well here is an update.

Went out this morning and the blasted thing fired right off.

Must be getting cold blooded like the V-8's used to be.

So, Im gonna get new plugs, cap, rotor, and a tank heater for the old girl.

That ought to get her going for awhile again.

ghosts in the machine

so what brand of tank heaters are the going thing up yonder??

we always had those cat's brand in NW KS--but now days it seems they are outsourced and are getting bad reviews

i need a couple myself--saw some on jc whitney

http://www.jcwhitney.com/tank-type-engine-heaters/p2000837.jcwx?TID=8014524FT2&zmam=15972153&zmas=21&zmac=165&zmap=10837G

i think phillips makes them

I think they are or were cat.

Im thinking about getting the one that goes into the lower radiator hose.

That way Im not trying to fuck around with a freeze plug in that engine compartment.

Wouldnt mind using the one that goes into the heater hose line, but it seems like when I try and use em, they shut the water off to the heater core.

The ones in the heater hose don't work if you have AC.
Also when you do a tune up, a coolant temp sensor and even a new O2 sensor ain't a bad idea. They will get lazy and affect economy or drivability but never trip a code. The coolant temp sensor is what drives it rich when cold, also puts the processor into closed loop when the engine gets warm. They go bad on Fords fairly often. The sucky part is that the OEM parts are far superior to the Napa, Carquest ect. but are worth the extra cost.

I know it needs new O2 sensors.

The drivers side one is a pain to get at, you gotta unbolt the steering shaft to get to it.

The riders looks like its got about 2 inches of space at most.

Pull the bolt out of the motor mount and jack the engine up, might be easier that pulling the steering shaft.

Back to no start again.

Got new plugs and have 2 of em changed, damned car sputtered out at work.

Got the inline heater for the lower rad hose.

Gonna have the maintenance guys push it into their shop tomorrow.

yowee--and in such balmy weather, too


henry ford and his kin are some cold blooded mofo's

good luck bub