carb icing

i am looking for typical conditions --temp/altitude/humidity---don't know that i have the problem, but don't want to find out the hard way

i made a spacer out of oak and it has worked fine--the other day--temp about 30--i ran the van for 30 mins and the base of the carb was still very cold--i am thinking out on the road i probably would've had the icing problem

i found some aircraft charts, but am too stupid to correlate them to land driving

i cut off a tube that comes off the exhaust that originally went to the oem riser/egr block--have it plugged with a bolt right now--thinking about putting a hose and a small spark arrester muffler and aiming it at the carb

i will probably take the wood riser out and fab a metal 1 out of 2 pieces of aluminum flat stock(almost 3/8's thick)

the idea is to have heat in winter and not in summer

We were taught that you could drop 30-50 degrees in the venturi. All aircraft that have a carb, have a provision to direct hot air into it...and you USE it anytime you throttle back, or suspect any icing. They wont ice up normally if you're at high power settings, but back off just a bit, and they'll build ice like a Frigidaire! Continentals are the worst for it... Lycoming runs the intake runners through the oil sump, so they're not so bad..... The bigger radials have variable heat, and temp gauges usually.
The thing to remember is that the heat will give you a bit of a richer mixture.
Typical conditions would be 50 degrees and some humidity. It'll happen higher if you're just loafing along, and if the fuel is "oxygenated" (got alcohol in it), it's going to be carrying a pile of water. This is one of the reasons people have problems burning car gas in airplanes..if they get alcohol blended, it want's to ice. At any rate, just figure the -30 to 50 drop and you'll be pretty close.
JH

That pipe was for the egr, not really put there for carb heat but undoubtedly they do. Do you still run the thermostatic air cleaner? How about the heat riser butterfly in the exhaust, is it functioning? I use one of the old Ford coolant heated spacers on mine and have never had a problem. I should also do a heated intake tho, might help mileage a little.

aftermarket air cleaner--butterfly is still there--functional?? idk

got a piece of 1/2 in aluminum plate--4 in x 4 in--gonna bore it tomorrow

taking the wood out should allow plenty of heat transfer

John--thanks for the schooling

ack---didn't/still don't have a 1 3/4 bi metal hole saw bit & can't seem to find my metal burrs

bit & burrs from the store tomorrow --i hope

okey dokey

1/2 inch aluminum spacer plate machined & installed

also--hoarding pays again--hot air choke feeder tube attached to intake manifold(with hose clamps--the hi tech, custom kind--wink wink)---choke adjusted and working fine

fired it off at about 40 degrees---much improved

Good deal! Hope it continues!

If you had an old fe breather you could run a hose up from the exhaust manifold.

Charles--this is on the van--300 6--no room for anything over 8 in dia, as far as breathers--eventually going to a carb hat & remote air filter--just got the slickest rochester breather adapter--takes me from the 3 in base to a 5 1/8 in breather base, also gives me about 3/8 drop--which is critical--came from speedway motors--solid billet--only 15 bux-i was totally shocked to get a billet part so cheap--they have some really cool upgrades for older stuff--got my eye on a disc brake conversion for the 62 impala--uses existing spindles--modestly priced

Since we are on this subject, which would be better.

1) Heat the entire manifold either with exhaust like stock or with a heater hose line.
2) Heat just the base of the carb like willow.
3) Run a hot air pipe from the exhaust manifold.

the heated stock type block is the most effective way--the way i made my riser i can drill it and plumb it for carb heat--the copper line was for hot air choke--if i need water heat--then i'll modify my 1/2 thick spacer block--pics tomorrow

the older styles of exh and semi married intake are really the simplest arrangement--it's when u go 4 bbl intake and headers or splits from later models that u lose the heat source

Lots of the guys on fodsix have made a heater for the bottom of the intake that circulates coolant.

willowbilly3 wrote: Lots of the guys on fodsix have made a heater for the bottom of the intake that circulates coolant.

some very good how to's


more snags here--the adapter is made for a 2gc with no choke--so i am still fabbing spacers & hunting for a special size filter element

it's a pita--but i find fun in making the stuff work--at this point it looks like i'll be using a briggs & stratton element

ford with a gm carb and a lawn mower air filter

Is that what you call Okiefied?

willowbilly3 wrote: Is that what you call Okiefied?

:[url=http://ww


man oh man---i think it might be a step beyond "okiefied"

did u know that a carb air breather gasket for a 3 in neck is "unobtainium" unless buying a carb kit??

i sure am learning a lot--maybe a tad late in life, but, wth---

getting pretty good at freehand routing of 1/8 aluminum sheet goods

Hell JD.... just loosen up the fuel line and let it drip, then rig up a lighter under there that you can actuate from the seat...or even a couple wires that will spark when ya hit a switch.... VIOLA!!! Carb fire and no more ice problem!!
John

the thought has crossed my mind--some days i would like to have a sit down with henry ford--between him and Eve--i ain't sure who has bestowed the greatest grief on mankind

me--i have this fucked up gene that causes me to tear a buncha shit off cuz it don't suit my fancy and then try--i said "try"--to make it work--my way

may the lord have mercy on my soul(jim dandy--black oak arkansas)


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hVqBpx5nlQE

i did it

pics tomorrow

be kind on the perimeters--i left room for final finish--this was a "no sharp edges--see if it works" fit--i am pleased -- cold soaked test run in the am

JD, I had forgotten about the water jacket base plate on the FE.
Now that its going to be Okiefied you could run a generator in the back of the van to power a old electric heater coil wrapped around the carb. That will solve the space restrictions. Carbonmonoxide and risk of fire from fuel leaks is a small price to pay for an Ice free carb.

:[url=http://ww Damn!! We're sure a bunch of helpful people, huh!!!! Anything else you need solved JD?
JH

since i changed the spacer plate from 1 inch to 1/2 inch i am having to readjust the whole ball of wax--still think i need to have a water plate,but looks like i'll have to make that also--i have a 302 with auto lite, but the base plate is wrong for all my stuff--all is fine,but i think it would ice at 30 and 65 mph on a long run--i have an idea to run some copper tubing from a heater hose and coil it around the 1 bbl to 2 bbl adapter riser--then wrap the thing with that header or starter heat shield material

Well come on down and get some. I have that Header wrap on one header we can take off. Shouldnt take over gallon of whiskey for us to get it off for you.