aluminum tech/knowledge needed

ok--in the continuing saga


i guess the "warp" factor is what i need


a plate of 3/8 aluminum roughly 6 in long by 4 1/2 in wide


the middle will be removed to accommodate a 2 bbl carb base--then a 1/8 to 3/16 inch passage routed into the plate for coolant flow

a 1/8 aluminum plate will be screwed to the 3/8 to seal the passage and complete the block

there will be the 4 carb mount bolt holes in the plate--i think these will be sufficient for the inner perimeter seal-specs on heater hose range from 60 to 80 psi--seems to me that some 1/4 or 5/16 panheads at each corner and 1 in the middle on the 6 inch side should seal it properly--along with a gasket and some pookey

the inlet and outlet will be on the same end--tapped in barb fittings


what do ya'll think???


i have room to go 1/2 inch and 1/4 inch if need be

I'm not following you well enough to visualize what you are doing.

I follow you but I don't know the warp Factor is.
If you used a steel plate for the plate that is not routed out it might reduce the warp
Seems like the seal between the two if good enough would handle any warping
Maybe when bolted together they will become "one" and it won't be an issue
Looks like a trial and error event to me. Good luck

JB--i am wanting to make one of these for a rochester 2 bbl--that will have coolant flow thru--plenty of holley products out there


http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AID-100-702/

the design will be open center instead of divided as shown in link

If it was me... I'd go with the 3/8 and 3/8....or even better yet, I'd take the 1/2 or a chunk of 3/4" (if ya want) and drill it for the ports. You can drill both sides and across one end with 1/4" and tap for pipe thread fittings. This would eliminate the 2 plates warping and trying to keep them sealed. It shouldn't be too tough to drill, if ya take your time.
Just my 2cents worth.
JH

That's what I would do too, eliminate the possibility that it would leak into the intake too. Or you could put a heater core in the air cleaner.

the method behind the madness was to only have 2 fittings and have them on the front

i wonder if just one passage way would provide enough heat to do the trick?--if so then it would simplify a bunch of things

If you drill it the unused holes would just have pipe plugs, there would still be only 2 fittings

duh--sometimes ya just gotta slap me upside the head

THUUUUUUUWWWAAAACCCCKKKKK!!!!!!!!!

Well you have had 4 days to get it built and get us some pics
Whats the hold up???????

patience glasshopper

I am using all the patience I have on waiting to rebuild the 67

my stock is free and i don't want to be too pushy

6 days and counting. Gramma was slow but she was old. You have free stock? In what Studebaker?

JD??? Pictures???

seriously--i am still contemplating a thing or 2

here is a plain riser

http://www.dashman.net/product.html?id=48

i am thinking of going with the 5/8 or 3/4 and then drilling only one side for coolant

i think a steady flow of 5/16 or 3/8 on one side --drilled between the bolt hole and the bore hole should transfer enough heat to function correctly

if not--the other side can be drilled--my supplier has been real busy -- so i ain't pushing--sides that this weather has been a bitch--and to top i off i pulled a rib trying to overreach (stupid stupid stupid) it's mostly back in place--nearly passed me out when it happened--i love pain

One side sounds like it will work.
If you have room to go in the front of the plate with a hose
and out the back of the plate with another
or you can just wait 90 days and you won't need it
Got enough groceries?

update

stock ordered


3/4 in x 6 in x 8 in al u min ium---brit speak

the pro cessing shall begin upon arrival of al u men ium


cheerio

ok--got a 6 x 8 x 3/4 in plate


now for the pass thru fluid--should i bore it big enough for some 5/16 or 3/8 copper tubing to pass thru and use flare fittings---or bore the aluminum and thread the fitting into the aluminum block--6 o 1 and half doz of tuther--ceptin for the extra copper line---my thoughts are toward the copper with flares

Just drill and tap threads, no need for copper line and it won't be as affective if the heat has to transfer through the copper tubing and the aluminum.

Yup, what JB said! Drill and tap, and presto, you've got heat!!

i'll be starting the drawing today--maybe even a pic as u go thingy


found the ideal fittings digging thru the junk---got out my antique machinist pitch gauge--now where's those confounded spectacles

Check the top of yer head

spartman wrote:Check the top of yer head

I hate it when the damned things get lost up there!