window motor removal

man, these are a real pita--pop rivets to grind down and drill out--plastic crap everywhere

Yeah, those big fat rivets that take $150 rivet gun too. I have tack welded a carriage head bolt back in them before.

Yinz would prolly be surprised at how many techs would rather change springs in a loaded perfume wagon ( trash truck ) than tear into a door or steering column.

Had to change the gears in my 88 F250 drivers door electric window. After 2 hours of being unable to get to 1-5/16" screw behind a door panel and a lot of cussing and skinned knuckles I called my brother inlaw the mechanic. I told him how in the heck do you get to it and after he laughed at my dumb a$$ for a min. he said just get my step drill and drill thru the panel where the screw is and use my nut driver on it. 10 min. to get the drill and bit, 1 min. to drill it and 30 seconds to remove that screw. Then I had to do the same thing on my 87 Bronco II. 30 min. in and out total time. Don't know anything about GM products

making headway--have considered knocking the 2 front door windows out and cutting a front and rear moon roof in da piece of chit

topper is the gear and the motor are sold as separate units, as well as the friggin drive ribbon and the track

3 big rivets holding it all to the door--then after you have cut the door in half to get the motor assembly out, the gear must be drilled out to get the motor off it --or vice versa

yeah--i am thinking a mild beat down might be less painful


correction: 4 bars(big ass rivets)

I've long thought it would be nice if some of the dipshits who dream these things up would study the way Mack did it for about 4 decades. Starting in the early 60's with their F and R model trucks and continuing thru '04 on CF, DM, U, RD and most of the rest of the fukkin alpabet they used a really simple system. One basic door design that fit many models and the doors interchanged between models. To disassemble the door you followed the same proceedure.
1) Open door
2) Roll down window
3) Grab the lock retainer clip at rear edge and pull out until it stops
4) Pull out lock cylinder
5) Remove the 3 screws that hold the latch
6) Remove the 20 or so screws that hold the inner panel
7) Grab the panel and pull it out of the door

The glass, regulator, latch and all go with the panel and are easily serviced on a bench.

Damn I love those old Macks.

Well Mack knew that truck would be in service for 30+ years and the window parts would wear out and need to be replaced so they made it easy to sell you knew door parts. These new vehicles are built like disposable lighters. Use it up fast and get a new car when the windows break at 100K miles. There hell out of the gate just weak on the back side

i agree--the whole plan is "disposable" everything--i have the blasted thing out--the motor itself is tiny

autozone has a new supplier called aic--i can't find them on the internet--the price is about 60 percent of dorman or cardone--i am seriously considering giving them a try--they only give a 1 yr warranty--dorman & cardone are limited lifetime--so it's 30 bux each versus 50 bux each

i am gonna remove the motor and see how the gear box acts before i decide--maybe try to find only the motor

I know what you mean on the disposable part.

I swear to GOD thats how they built my 90 cougar.

Right now Im 4 parts away from having completely rebuilding the front end, and 2 of those parts are the struts.

Also the power window on the drivers side needs rebuilding, and now the power steering pump is bout shot.

My 67 bumpside needs less to get it ready for the road and its been setting for 10+ years.

CJ,s 67 F100 wrote:Well Mack knew that truck would be in service for 30+ years and the window parts would wear out and need to be replaced so they made it easy to sell you knew door parts. These new vehicles are built like disposable lighters. Use it up fast and get a new car when the windows break at 100K miles. There hell out of the gate just weak on the back side

Sad part is big trucks are the same way anymore. Any medium or heavy built after '02 is pretty much a throw away. Too many electronics and way too much plastic. Even high end trucks like Pete and KW are going the same way. Freightliner led the way with their Century Class trucks in the late 90's. Overcomplicated mechanical assholes that just don't hold up.

I just wish the R series macks looked better.

I would love to convert one to a 1 ton chassis or something and drive that.

Oh well.

update---rockauto wins out--under 70 for both-- cardone-- new--no core--delivered

best i could do locally--in stock was 49.95

funny thing is, i remember the first time i heard of a 1 cardone--mid 90's while living by lake whitney--bought at a napa for an early 70's ihc travelall

regarding the r series---uglier is better

Admin wrote:

regarding the r series---uglier is better

They may be ugly but they are damn tough trucks. The old R is still king of the hill. Most truck models last 8 - 10 years. The better designs last mebbee 15 to 20. The R and it's decendants remained in production for 39 years.

update

the window motors arrived from rockauto--a1cardone--they have included the hardware--nuts,bolts and washers to replace the pop rivets--that is a pleasing little item--so, i will be on my knees -- praying to the false god, gm, it will be, as they say in church, all lip service--fuk gm--lol

in the interim--the rear brakes have been re-newed, new serpentine belt installed, fresh oil and filter & 1 can of "restore", factory air filter apparatus removed and replaced with 6 " cone from k&n--this accomplished 3 things--i repositioned the battery,so disassembly of front end not required to get to battery connections, also gained access to the ac dryer as it is/was buried/hidden by the air filter housing, and the engine sounds totally different with the new filter---all good

the ac needs re-built--it's already 134a--new compressor, dryer, orifice--2 yrs ago the quote was 600.00 and "whatever else it takes"-i expect to do it for 1/2 or less--labor not included, of course

shoot, i may be driving this thing when it's all said and done--it'll haul dogs and groceries--at a fraction of the van, mileage wise--well, i suppose when the air is blowing ice, mama may want it back--on to the nova & blazer & impala & travelall & sheesh--that's depressing--lol

it's amazing how many things need attended to, that take precedence, over being on knees all day. getting the first side out kicked my butt, physically. man, to have a lift--but i digress

got one part way back in this am--they did not provide all hardware--so it's off to the bolt bin for some scrounging--that and some thread locker--sure don't want to have to go back in there cuz some little nut vibed off

in the meantime, gardening has started, lawnmowers mowing, tiller tilling, new sounds in the van, rear ventilation fan(robbed ac condenser fan)mounted in van, 500 lbs of tools removed from van and stored in easy access boxes and tool boxes--my road running days are behind me--so if i can't repair it with what's on hand, then it's gotta come home to the yard--i am a shade tree kinda mechanic--no shadee-no workee

got them in---passenger side works great--driver's side is dead--damn locktite works too good

update ltr


:arrow:

Check the wires where they come through the door frame into the door.

correct senor---i am headed there now---????----if i do not find the bad spot, can i safely rewire from switch to window motor?? that is where the short is---good power up--nothing down at the motor---full power at switch both ways

If you have ground and power at the motor in both modes, must be the motor.

i only have 1 wire with juice at the motor--at the switch i get power up or down position


it's the 4 way master switch

2 wires going to each window motor

according to my volt meter the switch is ok


somewhere between the switch and the window motor plug is the problem--i think

JB-you called it--pretty much had to destroy the rubber accordian gasket, but sure enough, dead center in the pivot, those 2 wires--parted like they had been snipped

success--both front door window like new---fixed the wires--that was a real pita--used engine degreaser to clean regulator track,gear and belt--refreshed lube--white lithium spray grease--reassembling requires contortionistic bends in all flexible body parts---i am anxious to get the thing on the road--am going to order the ac parts from rock auto--can't beat their prices even with freight

if any one has 3 fairly fresh or known good coil packs--let me know--they are 25 each--need 3--really want to get some aftermarket performance packs--looks like around 40 each

2 front tires to put on and waiting for the ac parts, then it's zoom zoom zoom---i think it will be more aero friendly with all the hail dimples--ya know, like a golf ball